Overnight bus from Sofia to Istanbul

I feel a great deal of warmth towards and from these Muslim men. One of them speaks good English, and translates. With the Turkish music blaring, a swirling nicotine haze, and the bus hurtling down the pitch black highway, we ask each other questions. "Why did you (America) shoot down the Airbus?" asked the Iranians. It was a mistake, I say. They laugh at me, and explain the complex conspiracies that are really behind that tragedy.

I asked about their holy war with Iraq, and whether it was true about the human shields of 15 year old boys rushing the front lines and being killed - something like 750,000 dead when all told. The first response I get: "You in America cry when a cat dies."

(Wives and children were hidden in the back of the bus....)